Sunday, March 15, 2015

MARCH Reader Questions


I've been getting more questions lately and if you have any you want me to look at, feel free to drop them in the comments. Some of the most frequently asked are compiled together.

What is an essence and how should I use it?

Essences are being introduced into the American market and like BB creams before them, seem to be influenced from Asia. When purchasing products I think it is important to look at ingredients and see how products work with your skin rather than buying simply into labels like toners, essences, serums. Some serums are thick enough to work as moisturizers, some toning lotions are actually fluid lotions, you'll find a lot of overlap with the definition.

Essences are meant to be used after toning and before serums. The classic cleansers were primarily soap based which damaged skin's acid mantle so acidic toners were necessary to restore the balance while conveniently sloughing off dead skin cells to allow serums to better penetrate. Essences would figure into priming the skin for serums. Now there are good cleansers that are not soap based so a lot of toners already do the job of essences especially green facial mists that are concentrated in botanicals (look for products whose first ingredient is not water).

A lot of essences in Asia are actually a lot like serums in that they're light, fluid creamy products. As to actual benefit, a well formulated product can always benefit skin but whether it's a toner, essence or serum will not matter as much as the individual product's ingredients and what it is meant to do.

How often should I exfoliate my skin?

As often as it's good for your skin. Everybody's skin is different, I'm not telling you anything new here. So you shouldn't exfoliate your skin based on a set formula but rather adjust as you see fit. One of the things I think a lot of people often overlook is they don't realize when they exfoliate. Exfoliation isn't just a chemical peel or abrasive scrub, you exfoliate a little with every cleanse (citrus oils, enzymes and acids often do this task), most non-hydrating masks carry some sort of exfoliation whether chemical based or physical, your Vitamin C and Retinol treatments exfoliate skin, etc.

If you're seeing clogged pores, dull complexion then go for some gentle exfoliation. Those who wear heavier products like make-up, thick moisturizers and chalky sunscreens may find they need to exfoliate more frequently. On the other hand if your skin is frail, easily reddens and feels really sensitive to the touch it's a sign you've went a little overboard.

One of the precautions I want to share is not to go overboard. This isn't only because of potential irritation. Scientifically, our cells will reach a hayflick limit which is the number of times a cell will divide until it stops. This is because each division shortens the cell DNA's telomeres. It's really difficult to actually identify when this is reached but you might notice some people who really advocate daily Retinols and exfoliating acids have really beautiful and smooth yet thin and crepey skin that kind of looks strained the moment they move a facial muscle. When skin reaches that point, there really aren't many viable treatment options.

What is double cleansing and when/why should I do it?

I had no idea cleansing was going to be such a heavily discussed topic. Firstly, cleansing is super important. When someone tells me they don't 'believe' in cleansing or simply don't cleanse, in my mind I'm already silently panicking before they go on to tell me about their skin troubles. In fact, a lot of times when patients say they don't cleanse or aren't doing it properly then tell me they have very very irritable, weak or compromised skin, I always tell them to get on a recommended cleanser and follow-up if the issue persists. That's how important cleansing is for skin health.

You might be reading this and thinking "but I don't really cleanse or I just use an oil and my skin is fine" - more power to you! But I'm going to burst your bubble and let you know that the expensive serums you use are essentially useless as they're most likely sitting on your skin since you haven't cleared the way for them to properly be absorbed into your skin.

Caroline Hirons explains this in more detail and I recommend reading her post.

Essentially: mornings, cleanse with something light. Evenings make-up remover to remove make-up/oil/sunscreen, follow with a proper cleanser to get to work on your skin after you've removed all that stuff off the surface of your skin.

Need recommendations, have questions? Drop them in the comments.





23 comments:

  1. Essences and serums are the same. I don't think they differ much in terms of formulation. x

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    1. It really depends, some brands have essences that are just concentrated toners and they are a pure water-based formula. Others, especially increasingly in Asia tend to be thicker and more cream like. The point it, go beyond the label of the product type and look at what each product individually does.

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  2. That's pretty concerning regarding the retinol and acids over ex foliating skin. I know exactly the skin you're talking about, very beautiful when it isn't moving but the moment there is movement, it just looks paper thin. Do you recommend anything that can help like a retinol but not push my skin to be like that?

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    1. Yes there are actually ingredients that can extend the life of telomeres which in turn prolongs the hayflick limit. There is evidence that some forms of amino acids (building blocks) have this impact including carnosine which is naturally found in red meats and fish. I believe Arcona and Prana both use carnosine in at least one of their anti-aging products as well and both lines are pretty green.

      I also think for long term benefits it's worth switching to a natural form of retinol in the form of high- Vitamin A content natural oils that can be converted by skin cells into retinols. These are more gentle and you might see less immediate results but they won't thin your skin or cause a lot of the issues that you might see elsewhere. There are a couple of good ones including:

      Ren Bio-Retinoid Anti-Aging Concentrate ~ somewhat green but not completely
      Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil ~ good ingredients, not a fan of the use of color/dyes that are NOT NEEDED
      Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil ~ very high quality rosehip blend
      Yuli Modern Alchemist ~ contains a complex of Bio Retinols in a very high quality blend

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    2. I made the switch to retinoid oils since giving birth and the Ren Bio-Retinoid and Yuli Modern Alchemist are my favorites.

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  3. Could you help? I am relatively new to green products and have acne prone skin. Since switching to green at the end of last year my skin has become even worse, with cystic acne up and down my jawline, cheeks and chin, my skin is painful to touch. I am cleansing everyday with May Lindstrom Honey Mud and mask with Problem Solver and I use Kypris Beauty Elixir III day and night. What am I doing wrong?

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    1. Switching to natural products doesn't mean your skin will become clearer or better if you don't use the right products. In your case I have to be honest and say I'm not too surprised that cleansing everyday with a sugar-heavy oil based cleanser like the Honey Mud didn't work out for you. Honey does have some anti-bacterial properties but really.. not significant enough to be considered substantial in any cleansing capacity especially to go against acne, but it is a sugary humectant which isn't particularly doing your skin any favors. Then the chocolate, which adds more sugar. I'm not sure you should be eating this diet much less using this on your face. And there are oils in there, it probably isn't washing off cleanly either with all the loaded ingredients. You will probably see a world of change switching to another cleanser like Dr. Alkaitis, Amala Purifying cleanser or Yuli Halcyon.

      I also looked at the ingredients list for Kypris and I'm not sure why there is coconut oil in all of the formulas but it does not work for many skin types so that's something else you may need to switch out.

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    2. Beauty Newb, I switched to green beauty in July 2013 and like you my skin did not like it (lots of redness and irritation)! It took some time, but through a LOT of trial and error I found that my face doesn't like essential oils (especially citrus)! I tried every high-end green line out there and have finally gotten a routine that keeps my face clean and calm. Almost every product I use is either Yuli or Pai. Don't give up, but look for gentle things. I think I was using too many harsh/active products before.

      As for the painful, cystic acne on the jaw, I had that too, but way before going green. I was told that it was hormonal. It took antibiotics (not very green, I know) to get rid of those. Good luck!!!

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  4. My skin is pretty normal, I wear make-up but really light and use a sunscreen every day. What cleansing should I do? I noticed that my pores sometimes needs extractions and there is a waxy build up. Thanks!

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    1. You're probably using a cleanser that's milky similar to one of Tata Harper's where it's very gentle and washes off but there are waxes in there. These waxes contribute to the waxy build up as they settle into pores. There are good formulas that may be better suited for you like a low to non-foaming cleanser such as Yuli Halcyon or Red Flower Sea Cleanser.

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    2. OMG I am using exactly the Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser! LOL I can't believe you called it so spot on, thank you for your advice!!!

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  5. Always love these question/answer compilations. Your reply regarding the Honey Mud and chocolate rang a familiar bell for me :P I also agree with the coconut oil and Kypris--I think it's a shame coconut oil is in all of the Beauty Elixir formulas--it's what has deterred me from trying them. (though I have been trying the serums even though there is sugar can extract in the Clearing Serum and I think honeysuckle extract is the preservative for all the serums...comments?)

    I'm almost out of my 2nd well-loved bottle of Halcyon...considering branching out to a new cleanser. Any suggestions? I was looking at Tata Harper's new Purifying Cleanser?

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    1. Thanks Jade, always love our correspondence! I don't really mind sugar cane extract/honeysuckle extract in their serums, it's used in a lot of products and is more of a personal preference. It's strange that the formula for Kypris is all so similar, they're more like variations of one serum and one elixir.

      I've recommended Halcyon to a lot of people looking for a green cleanser that is ideal for skin, by ideal I mean: has a good pH that won't compromise skin, gentle, cleans deep down, non-stripping. Halcyon accomplishes all of that and is really in a rarefied space in this regard. Tata Harper's Purifying Cleanser uses a lot of oils and emulsifiers which aren't bad but in terms of expectations it won't be like the clear gel that Halcyon is, it'll be a bit more similar to the Kahina cream cleanser.

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  6. What soap would you recommend for cleaning makeup brushes and beauty blenders?

    Thanks!

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    1. I'd ask a make-up artist, it isn't really what dermatologists study. But I imagine a shampoo would actually be the best since it's made to clean hair in a delicate manner which I think can only benefit the hairs on the brushes.

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  7. Hi Green Derm!

    I can't thank you enough for your last post on balancing my skin. I have CHRONIC dry skin and no matter what I did, my skin was dry dry dry. I would surround myself with humidifiers year round and at its worst put vaseline on my skin too over my moisturizer.

    When I read how you recommended not applying anything after a mask or cleanse, I just about died! The first few times I did it, I was cursing silently but slowly I noticed my skin became more resilient. I have in over 30 years never felt my skin being able to actually get better on its own and you taught me that. Your advice is gold!

    Linda

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  8. Love your blog, very knowledgable as well as informative indeed. What are your thoughts on the Clarisonic? Would lets say the Clean Dirt be a better choice? Also, do you recommend cleansing AM, if done thoroughly the night before with the Halcyon?

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  9. I read Carolines Post on Cleansing. She really promotes the use of a acid toner after morning and evening cleansing. I read your posts and they seem to go against over using acids, as modern cleansers such as yuli are already at a 5.5 which is slightly acidic and at the optimal for skin. So why would I want to incorporate an acid toner as well? Wouldn't that be overkill and setting up skin sensitivity and disrupting the acid mantle? I am more into natural products such as Yuli, May Lindstrom, Kahina, Odacite. Which everything is formulated at a 5.5 or some slightly more acidic such as Mays Honey Mud and her Jasmine Garden, which do vary slightly per batch. I would like to hear your thoughts on the whole acid toning and if it is necessary as Caroline suggests in her routines. Can not wait to hear your thoughts.

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  10. Hi, Thank you so much for your blog! I was wondering if the thin, crepey skin you mentioned as a result of daily acids/retinols is due to overuse which doesn't allow skin time to properly regenerate on its own? I remember reading a post of yours "Vitamin A: Myth vs Facts Retinoic Acid & Natural Retinols" mentioning that retinols cause skin thickening. On an unrelated note - do you still use Osmia's Shelter for your sunblock? I've been looking for a green sunblock that won't leave a white cast on my dark skin and wondered if you had any recommendations. Really appreciate all of your posts! :)

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  11. Apologies for commenting twice! Just wanted to clarify my earlier comment - most physical sunscreens seem to break me out though I realize now that part of the problem is my cleansing style as well as maybe the products themselves. Will definitely switch to a double cleanse with an oil and yuli's cleanser shortly and try to give my skin some time to recover! Do you have any AM cleansers you recommend? Also, what body washes do you recommend and is it best to also use them everyday? I hope it's ok to ask so many questions, of course I don't expect an answer right away. Thank you for all of your time and helpful advice!!! :)

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  12. Can eyelids develop pimples? For the past couple years i have always incorporated eyeshadow into my daily makeup routine and last month had developed a small skin colored bump on my eyelid. I tried to scrape it off and it turned white with the bump still there. My derma told me it was a pimple because he saw a little hole (acne lesion) in the middle but its been here for 2 months already! Any opinion on what it is or what to do?

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  13. First off-love your blog & advice! Keep me coming please! I've cleaned out my skin care routine this last year to include top green brands like May Lindstrom, Yuli, Skin Owl, Herbivore Botanicals, Odacite, Kypris, etc but nothing seems to help with my blackheads. Any suggestions to help these pesky things?

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